Unless you’ve been living under a rock (or in the burbs), you know that Lowest Greenville is as hot as fancy cauliflower dishes in Dallas. Over the last couple of years we’ve seen the opening of Remedy, HG Supply, Blind Butcher, Yucatan (among others), and now we have Rapscallion to add to that list. The Anderson brothers, owners of Veritas Wine Bar and Boulevardier, worked with chef Nathan Tate to create the concept which is a modern-bistro take on southern classics.
Overall, I enjoyed the dining experience. From the simple decor to the perfectly crafted cocktails. The table ordered “The Long Walk to Nashville – Whole Bird” fried chicken platter that has been brined, rotisserized, hot fried, and drizzled with a Szechuan mala sauce. The breading on the chicken was light, perfectly fried, spicy, with just enough sweetness to balance the spice. I judge a good fried chicken on whether or not the skin and breading stay together when you bite into it. It was almost as if the breading and skin of the chicken was fused together for the perfect crispness.
As for our sides, the table ordered “family-style” the mac’n’cheese, charcuterie board, fried pickles, and cauliflower. Click through the slideshow of photos for full descriptions of each. Overall, they got 2 out of 4 right. The real winner, oddly enough, was the Down South Mezze charcuterie board. Such a simple concept, but with the volume turned up. On the board was a boiled peanut hummus that is definitely unconventional, but I’ve also never tasted a hummus so flavorful, and I can’t wait to try and replicate on my own. The pickled veggies were the perfect tangy bite to compliment the hummus. The Grilled Cauliflower Steaks were far from “steak” size, let’s just get that out of the way first. They were quite petite, if you ask me (see photo for reference). However, they were perfectly charred, served with a delicious white Okinawa white bbq sauce, and topped with tangy pickled red onion, and crisp petite sorrel.
Now, the less-than-successful dishes. First up, the fried pickles. More accurately, they were fried pickled vegetables which didn’t work on many levels. The same breading that was so successful on the fried chicken didn’t work on the pickled vegetables and came off the item with a single bite. In addition, the pickled vegetables were chewy and not crisp, therefore you were left chewing on a fried, breading-less piece of ocra. This dish is better left to cucumbers and sports bars. Next, it kills me to give a negative review of mac’n’cheese because it is my favorite side dish. It’s a classic. Unfortunately, Gammy’s Baked Mac with sharp cheddar and creole cream cheese was lacking in the creamy department. This mac’n’cheese was dry and over baked. You can tell an over baked mac by whether the elbow macaroni (or noodle choice) maintains its shape and bite. This mac was just a mush.
Like I said, I enjoyed my experience at Rapscallion. Nothing was inedible. Some dishes blew me away, and some didn’t. You take the good with the bad. Rapscallion is overall a great addition to Lowest Greenville and I can’t wait to return for more of that delicious fried chicken.
*Personal Rant: This is another restaurant with those AWFUL speckled stoneware-looking plates. I first complained about them in my Remedy post and here they pop up again! I just don’t feel like they elevate the experience. They definitely don’t feel like they compliment a $36 plate of fried chicken. Keep it simple and let the food shine on white plates.